It's Time to Get More Into Amateur Radio

 Out of curiosity, I looked at the topics of my past posts. Man, I was (am?) all over the place. Guns, Linux, Programming, Games, Servers...   Scattered all over the place. 

It has been suggested to me that while being varied in interests is healthy, dabbling all over the place makes me mediocre at most things. It is time to narrow down my interests and hobbies. I decided to invest more time and effort into just a few areas, one of which is good old amateur radio.

Yup, amateur radio. Notice I didn't say "ham" radio. Personally, the "ham" part bugs me. I know, it is silly, I just prefer Amateur Radio.

Now that my lovely lady (VE5TLS) and I (VE5KLS) have been licensed to operate, and have our callsigns, we have a world of cool activities available to us. Amateur radio is sometimes referred to as the hobby that encapsulates a hundred hobbies. There are many things to do that are related to amateur radio. I will only pick a few. Here's my plan for this year, and the near future:

Amateur Radio Satellite Communication

I look forward to tracking amateur radio satellites and using them as repeaters to communicate with other operators that share this interest. The idea of communicating with someone via an orbiting device is exiting to me. Heck, I can even use the International Space Station as a repeater. There is even a chance that I can communicate with someone aboard the ISS. How cool is that? Standing out in an open field near home and chatting with an astronaut up in space sounds awesome. I am really looking forward to satellite communication.

Low Power (QRP) Communications

While it is sometimes suggested that communicating with low power is not exactly a great idea, especially for beginners, I have decided to give it a shot anyways, and take on the challenge. Sometimes the easy way is not the most fun way, and QRP (the Q-code often used to describe low power radio  communication) could be a lot of fun. Many people do it. It is an amateur radio hobby unto itself. I especially like the idea that I can set up equipment to make this all portable. Good. I need to get out more, and get some exercise. Setting up a portable radio rig and antenna on the trails near town might be fun.

A Permanent Antenna Installation at Home

I need to make a decision and create an antenna system at home. I have configured a couple antennas with limited success in the past. Sadly, I have experienced strong winds that have damaged some installations. I have even snapped the wire of a fairly good end-fed antenna. My plan is to determine which HF bands I want to hang out in , and put up some quality, permanent, antenna structure to accomplish this goal. Setting up a permanent VHF/UHF is also a priority, and likely much easier. The last VHF/UHF antenna system came crashing down in very high winds. Lessons were learned.

The challenges:

Either of these endeavours require time and at least a minimum of equipment. I am slowly gaining equipment, and have plenty of time to do research and configure what is needed for success. My second mobile VHF/UHF radio (the Leixen VV-898S), used for satellite communications, is in the mail, and should arrive soon. After that I will acquire the Arrow II portable antenna, along with some cabling, connectors, and a battery system, and I should be almost ready to start bouncing my signals off of low earth orbiting satellites. For QRP, I will have to research a decent low power rig for someone on a tight budget.

An antenna solution for the home will require more time, money and effort. Oddly, for me, the biggest challenge is getting a tall mast up on a budget. I can build a wire antenna easily enough, it is just getting it as high as possible is a real challenge. An antenna for QRP will be easier, and portable.

Another challenge will be related directly to QRP communication. It is best that I try to communicate efficiently, and that means I will use CW mode. CW is Continuous Wave. This means that I will need to learn Morse code. Tammy (VE5TLS) and I have a couple of inexpensive straight keys on order. These look like the old Morse code keys seen in the movies. It will be a lot of fun learning Morse code together. It may even be a good excuse to build one or two code practice oscillators to help us practice.

I will record my adventures in amateur radio as I progress, and post my efforts here. Stay tuned, and wish me luck.

73 from VE5KLS

I Deleted my Youtube Account

I deleted my Youtube account.

• Gone, the small number of videos (only 10).
• Gone, the hundreds of subscribers.
• Gone, all  my comments.
• Gone, my subscriptions.
• Gone, some other stuff.

Don't let the door hit you on the ass on the way out.

Seriously, I doubt the channel will be missed.

I stopped creating new videos a while ago. Why? First, I am lazy, as can be seen by how often I post here (maybe that will change). Second, they changed how videos are monitized. If you have less then a certain number of regular views, you don't get paid. To be honest, while I like sharing a bit, I really liked the revenue, as small as it was.

Questions I have:

• Can I make a new channel in the future?
• Will they pay me the little revenue I have accumulated. It was slightly under the threshold needed to have them pay out.
• Was I just contributing to the huge pile of shit that Youtube has become? Don't get me wrong, there is plenty of good content out there, but most is shit, which apparently appeals to the sheep viewing it. Don't get me started on that.

So it looks like I will be spending more time here. I will try to contribute something useful, not just shit.

Who's the Lucky One?

I received one of the nicest gifts I have ever received. Check it out:

Pretty cool right? It is an Icom IC-737 Transceiver.

Okay, I admit is a big deal to me, but might not be for anyone not interested in being an Amateur Radio Operator. I am currently studying for my Amateur Radio with Basic Qualification (honours) certificate. Passing with a mark above 80% provides honours, which in turn, allows an operator to use bands below 30MHz. This IC-737 is ideal for this. Admittedly, it as an old unit, but it works well and will definitely do what I need.

Now it is time for me to complete self study, pass the test with at least 80%, and gather equipment such as a power supply, etc. to begin enjoying the hobby.

Later...

The 338 Gaillard Rifle Cartridge

What is the .338 Gaillard?

• A wildcat cartridge developed by Ted Gaillard
• What's a wildcat? Cartridges that are not officially registered with nor sanctioned by SAAMI (Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers’ Institute) are generally known as wildcats. Basically, you wont be seeing the 338 Gaillard cartridge on any store shelves, which is fine, as it is in the company of dozens (if not hundreds) of other excellent cartridges.
• It was developed for accurate long range shooting (beyond 600 yards).
• It's a belted magnum cartridge with excellent capabilities.
• It has an improved shoulder.
• Compared to it's parent cases, it has far less taper in the case wall.
• It's a .338 (8.585 millimeters).
• More case capacity than the standard 8mm Remington Magnum (my favorite parent case).
• It can be developed from a number of existing cartridges. Many wildcats restrict the developer to only one parent case. The 338 Gaillard's parent case flexibility makes it easy to develop cartridges when certain cases may be hard to acquire. (see: What is involved in forming the brass for this cartridge?).

Why would I want this wildcat?

• For all of its capabilities
• The 338 Gaillard is suitable for game the size of Elk or larger. It is also great for deer when loaded with lighter bullets such as Hornady's 180 grain Interlock.
• This cartridge is a very flat shooting cartridge, and therefore perfect for long range target shooting. Range permitting, you can shoot beyond 1000 yards quite accurately.
• Shoots heavier .338 bullets at high velocities (surpassing the .338 Winchester Magnum).
• Heavier .33-caliber bullets yield a great deal more energy and their larger diameter delivers a heavier blow than is possible with lighter calibers. The 338 Gaillard is obviously very powerful. When loaded with a typical 225 grain bullet it can surpass velocities of 3,000 feet per second (FPS) and deliver approximately a ton (2000 Foot Pounds) of energy at 500 yards. This makes it ideal for larger North American game. You can also enjoy the advantages of the heavier 338 bullet's wind bucking ability.
• You might like wildcats. For the uninitiated, wildcats can be fun. I personally like forming cases, reloading, testing, and the other aspects of using a wildcat cartridge.
• It is very accurate.
• Brass is cheaper than the 338 Lapua (Using the 8mm Remington Magnum as a base cartridge)
• There is a very good selection of .338 bullets available to the reloader, from a variety of manufacturers.

Why wouldn't I want this wildcat cartridge?

• The recoil of the 338 Gaillard is very substantial and this cartridge is recommended to those who have experience with other big bore caliber Magnum rifles, especially those who found they could deal with pronounced recoil. NOTE: Okay, recoil is relative. Each individual perceives recoil differently. There are also other factors besides the cartridge that determine felt recoil, such as rifle weight and style.
• You might not like wildcats. For the uninitiated, wildcats can be intimidating. You may not like forming cases, reloading, testing, and the other aspects of using a wildcat cartridge.
• It uses more powder.
• Since the cases are larger, cases will of course cost more than typical cases such as the .308 Winchester or the .223 Remington.

Where do I get one?

• You can't just walk into your favorite gun store and buy boxes of 338 Gaillard cartridges, or pick up a new rifle chambered in the 338 Gaillard. You have to build your own rifle, or rechamber an existing rifle for this wildcat.
• I have been informed that Redding provides reamers or dies.

How do I load for it?

• Bullets ranging from 200-250 grains are likely the best, but there's no reason not load cartridges with lighter 180 grain bullets or larger bullets as heavy as 300 grains.
•  There are a number of recommended powders to consider. Of course each rifle behaves differently and most people already have some favorite powders in mind, but powders such as IMR 7828, H 7828, IMR 4831, H 4831 perform rather well.
• I was tempted to share some load data here, but realize that I may be responsible for someone making a mistake and harming themselves or others.

What is involved in forming the brass for this cartridge?

• Click on the image for a closer look. From the the left: Unmodified 8mm Remington Magnum, Necked up to .35, Necked down to .338 (false shoulder), Formed and subsequently loaded .338 Gaillard cartridge.
• 338 Gaillard cases can be made from the Remington .416, Remington 8mm Magnum, 340 Weatherby, 7mmSTW and the 375 H&H cartridge cases.
• Personally, I prefer to base the 338 Gaillard on the 8mm Remington Magnum case, which has become quite popular amongst wildcatters. This is because the 8mm Remington Magnum offers an exceptional sturdy, pressure resistant cartridge case that can be reloaded with relative ease.
• There are a few general steps involved in building the 338 Gaillard on the 8mm Remington Magnum.

1.    First, the case should be necked up to 35 caliber. This allows us to create a false shoulder for fire forming the brass.
2.    Second, create a false shoulder by necking the case down a little at a time from 35 to 338. In this step, I removed the firing pin assembly from my Remington bolt and tried to close the bolt on my new case after partially necking the case down in increments. Each time I returned the case to the reloading press and lowered the die a little more. Again I would try to close the bolt on the new case with only a little finger pressure until it finally closed. This creates a perfect 338 neck over a false .35 inch shoulder, which is very helpful when fire forming as it reduces brass flow and prolongs the case life by stretching the case less above the belt.
3.    Third, fire form the cases with a reduced load. I dropped the usual load by 10 percent, and the result was a batch of cases with good shoulders and sharp angles.

• Case length. My chamber was measured at 2.8785, and my recommended trim to length is 2.860. By comparison, the 340 Weatherby magnum case is 2.825 in length.

What type of bullets are recommended?

• Bullets ranging from 200 - 250 grains are likely the best. I enjoyed testing the 225 grain bullets, but forming 100 in a single range session left me a tiny bit tender.
• Why not the 180, or 300 grain bullets? As mentioned earlier, these area also fine choices, but each has slight limitations. Lighter bullets like the 180 or 200 grain may not have the same long range benefits of the 225 or 250 grain bullets, but they are fine for hunting a reasonable ranges, and produce less recoil. I am very tempted to try the 180 grain bullets. I look forward to pushing those through the Chrony.
•  Let's consider sectional density (Sectional Density or SD is important because it has a significant effect on penetration) Compared to the .308, a 200 grain 308 has a SD of .301, while a 200 grain .338 has a SD of .331. Of course the higher the number the better.

Is the .338 Gaillard similar to other wildcat cartridges?

• Yes it is. It is very close to the 8.6 x 72mm SDM. It is also similar to the 338-8mm Remington Magnum. In addition, from what I can gather during my research, it  may be similar to the .338 Jarrett. (I would like to confirm that if anyone feels like dropping me an email)

Thanks for reading.

Worst blogger ever.

Man I suck at updating this place. Sometimes a year passes (or more?)

I think I am just busy doing many things and simply forget to include them here. I need to share more. :-)

Ack !! No Server !!

There's no point in concerning myself with network/server security right now. The Server is gone. Here are the last couple of posts related to this:

http://www.kevinschick.com/2016/06/network-attacks-ufw-is-working-but-more.html

http://www.kevinschick.com/2016/06/tenacious-attackers-network-exploiters.html

I could not resolve the server by IP or name at all yesterday. I quickly found that the systems engineer at the data center didn't verify the asset tags on the servers involved, and wiped out everything of mine by mistake.

It was an experimental server, so I did not panic or freak out. The new set up will be running with ESXi and I will be able re-install and manipulate it via vsphere. I also took this as an advantage to move away from Debian and jump into CentOS. I used Redhat many years ago, pre-Fedora to be more precise, so the transition back to rpm goodness should not present any real issues or giant hurdles.

I look forward to the change.

I will concentrate on hardening the server, and experimenting with attackers. A honeypot is tempting. The first paragraph of the Wikipedia article describes a honeypot very well. I think analysing hacker activity and how attacks develop and progress will be very interesting and make me proficient at securing my server(s).

Network Attacks. UFW is Working, but More is Needed.

More attacks on the server. Of course. UFW (UFW -Uncomplicated Firewall) is running, which is a must.

Unfortunately, the logs are still full of assholes trying to break in. Shit like this:

Jun 25 20:16:17 vbox sshd[38237]: Invalid user guest from 91.214.130.248
Jun 25 20:16:17 vbox sshd[38237]: input_userauth_request: invalid user guest [preauth]
Jun 25 20:16:17 vbox sshd[38237]: Received disconnect from 91.214.130.248: 11: Bye Bye [preauth]
Jun 25 20:16:18 vbox sshd[38239]: reverse mapping checking getaddrinfo for host-91.214.130.248.ardinvest.net [91.214.130.2
48] failed - POSSIBLE BREAK-IN ATTEMPT!

and...

Jun 25 21:57:32 vbox sshd[38342]: Received disconnect from 95.39.39.5: 11: disconnected by user [preauth]
Jun 25 22:02:43 vbox sshd[38345]: Received disconnect from 116.31.116.7: 11:  [preauth]
Jun 25 22:09:01 vbox CRON[38349]: pam_unix(cron:session): session opened for user root by (uid=0)
Jun 25 22:09:01 vbox CRON[38349]: pam_unix(cron:session): session closed for user root
Jun 25 22:09:51 vbox sshd[38371]: reverse mapping checking getaddrinfo for static.customer-201-116-53-85.uninet-ide.com.mx
[201.116.53.85] failed - POSSIBLE BREAK-IN ATTEMPT!

There is more of course. Time to use another tool to make things a bit easier.

After some research, it appears that fail2ban comes highly recommended.

My amazing web writing skill enables me to simply regurgitate words from the fail2ban website:

"Fail2ban scans log files (e.g. /var/log/apache/error_log) and bans IPs that show the malicious signs -- too many password failures, seeking for exploits, etc. Generally Fail2Ban is then used to update firewall rules to reject the IP addresses for a specified amount of time, although any arbitrary other action (e.g. sending an email) could also be configured. Out of the box Fail2Ban comes with filters for various services (apache, courier, ssh, etc).

Fail2Ban is able to reduce the rate of incorrect authentications attempts however it cannot eliminate the risk that weak authentication presents. Configure services to use only two factor or public/private authentication mechanisms if you really want to protect services."

Setting it up is easy enough. Plenty of tutorials for numerous Linux/OSS distributions out there. If you need a link, just ask. I will try and find a decent one for you.

I have set findtime to 480 seconds,
maxretry to 3,
and offenders are blocked for 6000 seconds (100 minutes)

So if I understand it correctly, if some prick tries 3 times within 480 seconds, he/she gets banned for 100 minutes.

Let's see how that works after a couple days.

Hello Manjaro

Using Debian, or any one of it's derivatives such as Linux Mint or Ubuntu is fine. Multiple systems let me enjoy some of those, but I felt that I wasn't exploring enough of the Linux goodness out there.

Maybe something different would be educational and more fun.

Ladies and gentlemen, my new friend Manjaro.
Note: Blogger offers me the choice of forcing you to leave my page when you click that link, or open it it in a new window. I dislike both choices. Opening this link in a new tab instead would be nice.

I won't go into details about Manjaro, as there are plenty of reviews and related sites out there. I doubt the world needs another one. The fact that is Arch based is important. The change is a challenge.

I grabbed the a recent Xfce edition only because I have never tried that desktop environment. Manjaro has lots of desktop choices. I could have picked KDE, BspWM, Budgie, Cinnamon, Deepin, Enlightenment, Fluxbox, Gnome, i3, JWM, LXDE, LXQT, MATE, Netbook, Openbox and PekWM.

Since my install, just days ago, they have another offering using JWM (Joe’s Window Manager), it is a lightweight stacking window manager for the X Window System written by Joe Wingbermuehle. Incredibly,the system boots up with less than 111MB of RAM usage. Not too shabby considering how powerful Manjaro is.

For me, I like Manjaro a lot. I was concerned with Xfce, having been used to stuff like KDE and MATE, but I am really digging the lighter interface.

That's it! No lengthy review or any of that. Go try Manjaro.

Tenacious Attackers. Network Exploiters Abound.

Hit already.

No surprise, it's just how much the server is attacked that is surprising to me. This is probably typical to the veterans out there.

Tenacious; adjective: persistent in maintaining, adhering to, or seeking something valued or desired
That sounds about right for our network visitors today. Here are just some examples of the activity so far:

Jun 19 03:09:18 vbox sshd[10716]: Invalid user git from 69.10.58.155
Jun 19 03:09:18 vbox sshd[10716]: input_userauth_request: invalid user git [preauth]
Jun 19 03:09:18 vbox sshd[10716]: error: Received disconnect from 69.10.58.155: 3: com.jcraft.jsch.JSchException: Auth fail [preauth]
Jun 19 03:09:19 vbox sshd[10718]: Address 69.10.58.155 maps to server.peopleshosting.in, but this does not map back to the address - POSSIBLE BREAK-IN ATTEMPT

This little pick (69.10.58.155) tried over and over again, likely as fast as the script he/she was using dictated. Tries with all sorts of possible users were employed, such as tomcat, unbuntu, ubtn, test, ftpuser, and many more. One interesting attempt was for user PlcmSpIp.

Jun 19 07:58:39 vbox sshd[11341]: Received disconnect from 195.20.3.210: 11: disconnected by user [preauth]

It's a party...

Jun 19 11:01:49 vbox sshd[11540]: Protocol major versions differ for 46.105.123.28: SSH-2.0-OpenSSH_6.7p1 Debian-5+deb8u2 vs. SSH-1.5-NmapNSE_1.0

Another dickhead...

Jun 19 12:33:10 vbox sshd[11636]: Invalid user admin from 23.247.97.147
Jun 19 12:33:10 vbox sshd[11636]: input_userauth_request: invalid user admin [preauth]
Jun 19 12:33:10 vbox sshd[11636]: fatal: Read from socket failed: Connection reset by peer [preauth]
Jun 19 12:33:11 vbox sshd[11638]: Address 23.247.97.147 maps to mail6.xdem067.cc, but this does not map back to the address - POSSIBLE BREAK-IN ATTEMPT!

That IP hammered me for quite a while. "POSSIBLE BREAK-IN ATTEMPT!" is server generated. I didn't place it here for effect. :-)

Jun 19 13:43:01 vbox CRON[12111]: pam_unix(cron:session): session opened for user root by (uid=0)
Jun 19 13:43:20 vbox sshd[12114]: Connection closed by 71.6.146.185 [preauth]
Jun 19 13:43:20 vbox sshd[12116]: Connection closed by 71.6.146.185 [preauth]

Far too many others to list here. This is just a sample of one day.

Of course none of those IP addresses are anything I typically use. They're all outsiders. sadly, this activity is probably normal for most servers out there.
Is it bad that I am enjoying this? I definitely have to see where this is going, and consider my security options. More to follow.
Feel free to leave a comment and offer suggestions. Should i change the ssh port? Fail2ban? Am I on the right track?

I am Running an Experimental Server

I have an interest in network security. so I set up a dynamic server testing environment.

It is basically an experiment to learn more about how a typical server is approached by outsiders, specifically those with bad intentions. Really, how bad could it be? Will I be attacked?

Absolutely, no doubt about it.

As time progresses I will occasionally share some of the external hacking attempts and door-knocking the server encounters. The server is set up to log practically everything, but since that data will be enormous, it will be far too much to provide as updates here. Frankly, updates containing anything more than a few periodic examples would be a tedious read and snooze fest.

I am a complete amateur in all network security. Besides me researching a lot, experience is needed. This is not a hacking invitation, especially since I won't need to invite prowling network jackasses anyways. I am fairly good at manipulating a server, but am truthfully just learning the security side of it.

I know some of the risks.

My server is virtual, and hosted nowhere near me. It can be wiped and reinstall all fresh and sparkly after a successful attack. But ... it risks being compromised and used to attack others. This a major concern. As a precaution, as soon as I detect that (and I will if need be), the server will go on complete lockdown and reset.

That said, I do have some security and tightening measures in place. I was tempted to run the server naked and see what happens, but expect it wouldn't last long before it got completely fucked by outsiders. Presently there some protections up, and a way for me to securely access the server to check logs and make changes as needed.

Stay tuned. It could be like watching a car wreck.

My First Steps at Creating My Own Anvil-like Object

I need an anvil.

The prices of anvils in my area are simply ridiculous. I can't shell out cash for the rusty, banged up shit that is available. Sadly, it seems that some guys (and girls) are hoarding, even owning four or more anvils. It's their right, but they are making it tough for new smiths.
My answer to the dilemma? Make my own. Many have done it  before me, using old rail or other metals, so the possibility exists. I want something specific, a nice clean, heavy block of mild steel.

Anyway...

I thought of checking out the local scrap yard to see if they had a large chunk of mild steel I might use, or perhaps modify for use as an anvil. My first trip was last week, on Friday, during lunch hour, when it was safe and they let me look around the piles. No luck on a big chunk, but I did get some nice coil springs to make tools with, so not a bad first try.

I returned a week later to look around again, and the nice guy at the office informed me that it was my lucky day. A large 5" (12.7mm) plate arrived about 10 minutes before I showed up. I took a look out in the yard and found the plate to be huge. I didn't measure it, but it seemed about 2 metres x 3 metres. Most was cut away as two huge circles were removed, leaving only two corners usable to cut out anything of a decent size. I was able to get 30cm x 30cm x 12cm (1' x 1' x 5") block cut for me.The cost came to $100 CDN, cut, a lot of money for a guy like me.

It is extremely heavy for a small chunk, weighing in at about 90Kg (200 pounds). It was still hot when I moved it 8 hours later. Hot enough to quickly evaporate water sprinkled on it. Here are a few pics of what I brought home. You can click the images to enlarge.

The torch cuts are not what I expected. I know torches are a bit rough, but these are going to take me a ton of work to level and smooth out. The cuts are angled poorly,  and not at 90 degrees on the sides. Maybe this is what torch cuts are supposed to look like. I will pick the best 30cm x 12cm side to use as the anvil face, and at the very least level and flatten the opposite side so that the anvil sits properly on a wooden base.  I hope to use my 5' angle grinder to work it all out.

I have other plans for it, but am unsure how to proceed, due to possible labour pricing and my ability. A hardy hole and pritchel hole would be great, and require a pass-through to allow stuff to drop through. While I may be able to drill neatly enough for a pritchel hole, a square hardy hole is far beyond anything I can achieve. The pass-through or cut away area underneath is likely to require a machinist, or me finding a way to neatly cut something like a large semicircle out of one side.

If the face gets too dinged up, which is okay for a while, I will get a flat piece of something like AR500 welded on top, and do cuts with a small piece of scrap laid on top for those few minutes needed.

I look forward to the challenge.

Bad Luck with Keytop Replacement

Shitty luck.

I was pretty excited to get the package of new keytops I ordered, but sadly for me, they arrived damaged. The package was sent without padding, which seemed pretty stupid to me.

One damn key and the set is useless.

Oh well, life goes on. The supplier is working to solve this. I Guess I will have to practice more patience.

Canadian prices on these were about 10x more. Shame.

I am Working Hard on the Bell Piano - Cleaning

I have been going over the bell piano I received, and started to give it a cleaning and inspection of its interior.

What a mess!

It looks like it may have been cleaned before, but certainly not for a long time. Heck, it is old, I expected it to be dirty. Vacuuming out as much dust as I possibly could was not enough. I knew that sooner or later I would have to figure out how to reveal the keysticks, determine how to safely remove and re-install them, and inspect and clean underneath.

Removing the keyslip and fallboard wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. I was happy getting at the keysticks wasn't a difficult task. Man, they were dirty, and what I found under them was worse. coins, stick pins, bobby pins, beads, and other junk had slipped between the keys over the years, and the amount of dust underneath the keys was more than expected. \sadly, I found that all the felt washers need to be replaced.

I removed and scrubbed (dry, not wet) each keystick in small groups. Sure they are numbered, but removing them all at once seemed like looking for trouble. Here is a side-by-side image of what I encountered and some of what I cleaned.

It is pretty obvious what side is the newly cleaned keysticks.

The camera flash makes the ivory look quite nice, but in reality, it is not. It is stained and not as white as it appears in the image. Cleaning it was a lot of work. Many keys have damaged ivory, so I may replace the keytops one day anyways.

It is hard to see from the image, but some idiot replaced a bridle strap with some string (looks whitish) on the action for key #24 (second to the left of that center spacing). Yet another reason to replace all 88 bridle straps. Won't that be fun?

Thanks for checking it out. More to come, as time and funds permit.

Lastly, the folks at the The PianoWorld Forums are super friendly and helpful. Very nice of them considering that some new guy is barging into their trade, and asking many questions.

Bell Piano Upright

I received my new-to-me Bell upright piano. It is was manufactured around 1904 by the Bell Piano Company in Guelph Ontario. So far my research indicates that the company made very nice pianos with rich sounds and shipped many worldwide. How great the piano truly is remains to be seen of course, as it is very old, and is likely to have issues. The case, or outside is rough in spots, but quite tolerable, so I think I can live with how it looks in the living room.

I have already begun to disassemble it to look for problems  I am entirely new at this, so it is a learning experience as well as a challenge. I am still determining what part names are and the basics of function. Here's a picture of it opened (click on it for a larger image):

It is out of tune of course, so that will have to get remedied soon. From what I have gathered so far, the bridle straps are in bad shape, and some are broken. One was replaced with string, which I find ridiculous. The key tops are in need of care. Some are cracked, and others are worn from years of use (enjoyment). The hammer and damper pads are old, and as a result some need work, or replacement. I am hoping I can fix them myself. The hammer pads are in far better shape than the damper pads. More problems will likely rear their ugly heads as I delve further into it, but on the good side, the sound board, strings, plate and bridges seem good.

So now the adventure begins. As I am completely broke, I plan on doing much of the repairs myself (balls of steel). Not sure what to tackle first, keytops or bridle straps. I might even be able to work up enough confidence to pull out the complete action. I will post images and updates as I progress.

Wish me luck.

Missing Samples in Kontakt - A Solution

So you added a Kontakt library and now get a missing samples error.

At times you may run into an issue where Kontakt presents you with a warning about missing samples while you are attempting to use a library. Perhaps it is a new library, or you have upgraded something such as Kontakt and the issue occurred.
This happened to me after I added a new library. I received a "Missing Samples" error when I double-clicked on "Piano in Blue v2.nki" to add that particular instrument.

A window popped up and informed me I was missing samples.Yours may look similar to this:

 I used the option to manually resolve the issue by directing it to the folder for that particular library using "Browse for folder" under "Resolve Manually", which worked fine. I simply selected the directory where I had stored that particular library, and the warning window went away. I played with the instrument, and it was all there. Yay!

Except......

The next time I used Kontakt, and tried double-clicking to use that instrument as before, I was presented with the same damn error message about missing samples. It was very annoying since I know the samples are there, and they work fine. So I had to resolve the issue again by using the above mentioned method and showing Kontakt the library's folder. It worked again, but screw that, I am not doing this every time I want to use that instrument!

The Solution?     Re-save the .nki file. 

WARNING: Back up you library just in case. I would feel like shit if you lost your library.

Once I had resolved the missing samples issue again, by showing Kontakt which folder to search and everything sounded great, I did the following:

• I clicked the "Files" box at the top of the Kontakt window.

• From there, I looked for "Save as..." in the drop down box. It displayed the name of the NKI file I needed to fix. Mine looked like this);

• Selecting that nki file presents a dialog box.  Here you need to click on "Patch Only" under "Save Mode", and check the box for "absolute sample paths". My "Save in" directory was nicely pre-chosen for me as the correct library folder. Check the image below.

• I selected "Save" and confirmed I was indeed replacing the existing file. 

So there you have it. Close, and re-open Kontakt.  It should work fine now. No more annoying missing samples popup.

Feel free to leave a comment below.

Meet Some of the Kids

They are mine all mine. Budget instruments? Absolutely.Suitable for me? You bet.

Yamaha F310 Acoustic

Inexpensive and perfect for an amateur like myself. Not exactly a ringing endorsement, but it is a budget acoustic after all.

My little description is just a bit less exciting than Yamaha's, "The F310 offers the same focus on quality, design and sound as all Yamaha acoustics and puts it in an incredibly affordable package. "

Some specs:

Spruce top
Meranti back and sides. What the hell is Meranti wood? South Asian wood. A.K.A. Luan or Philippine mahogany. Good, bad? No clue.
Nato neck. What the hell is Nato wood? It is wood from the Mora tree. Trees primary located in northern South America, and southern Central America. A bit of a drive from the manufacturing plant in Indonesia. It looks nice.
Rosewood fingerboard and bridge.

What I like about this acoustic:

It sounds beautiful. Really! It is rich and deep. It resonates nicely. I am surprised by the sound. Since I bought it 5 years ago, I could swear it sounds even better.
Fit and action are nice. It is easy to play, and was setup nicely from the factory. Very playable, if that makes any sense.
Tuning. I threw new strings on it on day one, and since then seldom re-tune. It just keeps staying in tune. It is baffling. I play it for months without needing to do nothing more than a tiny adjustment.

What I don't like about this acoustic:

Sides of the fretboard are a tad rough. I catch a bit on the fret edges nearest the higher frets. Not major, but not great.
Inlays. Obviously off center on the sides of the fretboard. Not perfect on the top, but not anywhere near as noticeable as the sides.

Are you thinking, "Didn't you check it for rough frets and all that when you bought it?"
Yes I did. It just sounded so damn good for a budget acoustic. I had to have it.

Yamaha RBX 270J Bass

• Body: Alder
• Neck: Bolt-on Maple
• Fingerboard: Rosewood
• Scale: 864mm (34)
• Frets: 24
• Bridge: Vintage Style
• Pickups: Split Coil x 1, Single Coil x 1
• Controls: Front Volume, Rear Volume, Master Tone

I probably wouldn't know a good bass from a bad bass. I think it's great, for me anyways.

What I like:

It is light and easy to carry on a strap
I think it looks quite good for an inexpensive guitar
It sounds good. By that I mean that coupled with my Fender Rumble 75, it sounds good enough for a beginner like myself.
It is inexpensive. A trait shared by many of the things I own.

What I don't like:

The finish. While the natural wood look is appealing, the finishing job itself is not well done. Little bumps in numerous places show that it was likely sprayed while dust and other particles were present. You can easily feel it when yo run your fingers over the body. A shame, even for a budget guitar.
Frets could use a little work. Maybe I am getting too picky considering I am not spending more on equipment, but some of the fret work has left it a tad sharp in places.

Would I recommend it?

For a newer player, the answer is yes. Just look one over before buying (likely used by now). I would also recommend a thorough examination of current budget models.

Epiphone Les Paul Special II

The guitar I love to hate

It is a guitar for new players. That doesn't necessarily make it bad. Epiphone thinks it is quite remarkable. I love their description, "Seasoned pros also love the Special II because it's a great-sounding workhorse of a guitar that allows them to leave their more expensive axes at home." I find that a little funny for some reason.

Mahogany. It's a solid guitar with an Epiphone 650R Humbucker neck pickup, and a Epiphone 700T Humbucker bridge pickup. It sports the very nice LockTone™ Tune-o-matic bridge and the LockTone™ Stopbar tailpiece What's not to like?

What I like about the Special II:

It sounds okay. No matter how I adjusted it, it was either sounding a bit to treble or a bit to bass, but still a rocking sound. No annoying hum. I think many people would have no complaints.

It is solid. You could kill someone with this thing.

It looks nice. Mine is black, and more appealing to me than the other finishes, but that is just me. Chrome hardware stands out nicely.

What I don't like about the Special II:

Tuning pegs. Ya, I know it is a cheap guitar and most like it have poor pegs, but it is a bit of a pain to tune so much.

Rough frets.

Now to be fair.

This guitar would be fine for a new player. Just take your time and get one with a smoother feel around the fret edges.

I just really don't like mine. I can't really put my finger on it, I just don't like it. Is it the rosewood fretboard (a tiny bit rough, but not bad), or is it just me? Neck radius? 

Did you ever buy a guitar and within weeks realize it just feels all wrong? I did.

It is a perfectly good guitar. It really is just me. (This is starting to sound like a bad breakup.) The Special II just doesn't feel right to me. Of the small number of guitars I own, this one just isn't fun to play. We just weren't made for each other. Like a failed movie romance, we need time apart.

I need another Tele.

I appreciate any comments.

My First Camera Purchase

The first, and only film camera I ever purchased is my trusty old Minolta X-370.

It was inexpensive (not to me) but described as very capable at the time. For some it may feel square, and lack a bunch of features, but I love it. The small LED indicators in the viewfinder made the Pentax K1000 I used in high school seem primitive. I have much love for the Pentax K1000,

The Minolta X-370 required a couple batteries, but I could live with that. The X-370 has aperture priority and metered manual modes. I sometimes  used the AF lock, but mainly used manual as much as possible. While I had plans to save up and upgrade from the X-370, I didn't. It worked, it felt nice to me, and I grew used to it.

Here it is. It's dusty and has the old cheap lens I used way too much.

Minolta X-370

Garage Sale Camera Finds

I love finding old cameras at garage sales. Nothing expensive, rare, or museum quality, just old and interesting cameras.

The feeling I get when I see a dusty camera box on a sale table is great. I can't wait to see what it is. They aren't just metal, glass, and plastic to me. They represent someones desire to record their life and the lives around them. These cameras saved memories. They may have been held in children's hands (like the Brownies were intended), or fiddled with by Grandpa on a Christmas morning.

I need more. Maybe one day I will get lucky and find a real gem, but until them my current garage sale oldies are just fine.

I have included a couple of the 8mm cameras I have found as well. Obviously not still image cameras, but I couldn't resist. They just look so great to me.

Here we go. You can click on any image to zoom in for a better look.

Kodak Starmite

Manufactured from 1960 to 1963. Notice the nifty built-in flash? It has the typical Dakon lens which is very likely plastic.
Uses 127 roll film and allowed the user to switch the camera between color or black and white.

Kodak Starflash

The Starflash was made in black in the US from March 1957-June 1965. I am unsure of the dats of manufacture in Canada.
It produced 4x4cm images on 127 film. It also sported the inexpensive Dakon lens. Like the Starmite, and Starlet,
it also let the user switch between color or black and white via a toggle of sorts at the front of the camera.

Kodak Brownie Starlet with the Supermite flash holder

Apparently these came about as early as 1956 and were produced until 1961. It has the typical plastic Dakon lens.
It used the popular 127 film. Again like its familiar cousins, provided a method on the camera front to switch between color or black and white.

Kodak Brownie Hawkeye with the detachable flash holder

I like this one a lot. I think it looks great for an oldie. These were around from September 1950 to sometime in 1961.
It produced a 2x2 image on 620 film. This once cost around $7 brand new.

Kodak Duaflex

(This is likely a model I)

There were three other models, the II, III, and IV. It has a Kodet Lens and used 620 roll film. These were introduced as early as 1947 in the US, and likely a couple years later in Canada.
Some Dualflex models used either a simple fixed focus 75mm f/15 Kodet lens, or with a 72mm f/8 Kodar triplet lens.

Kodak Brownie SIX-16

This camera was introduced in July 1946 and was discontinued in November 1951.
It produced a 2 ½ x 4 ¼ inche image on 616 film.

Lens: Meniscus
Shutter: Rotary
This went for the whopping price of about $4

Diana

Made by Great Wall Plastic Factory in Kowloon Hong Kong. What a great name for a company.
This cheap camera abused 120 film by leaking light and having a very low quality lens.
These were very, very cheap. On numerous occasions these were literally given away at some events.
Did I mention cheap? This thing feels like a toy, and not really like something that might produce pictures.

Ansco Panda

Just a simple plastic camera that was popular with kids. It came about in 1946. It shoots 620 film (or "Ansco No. 20" film). It weighs less than a doughnut.

Ansco Memar Pronto

This is a vintage, German made, 1954 Ansco Memar Pronto Camera
It shoots 35mm film, and is supposedly capable of decent images. I had horrible luck finding details on this camera.
My Internet search results were page after page of sales links. I love the look camera, and I like the nice weight.

Polaroid Automatic Land Camera 430

I love it.

It has auto exposure and nifty looking bellows. It was a popular camera even though it was of cheaper quality than its 250 and 450 cousins. It has a rigid viewfinder and a plastic lens. All that said, it's very cool. Why? It produced a 7.2×9.5cm print on Polaroid 100-series packfilm in about a minute. I am definitely dating myself here, but I can remember exactly when an adult took my first Polaroid picture and handed it to me. Watching it develop into a photo of my smiling face was magical. I t blew my preschool mind.

The amazing folks at Impossible even have new film available for those diehard Polaroid people out there.

Argus Cinemax 8EE 8mm Camera

Very cool. I know, it's not a still image camera, but it still interests me.
Like the rest of my oldies, this one is not very valuable, but I love it. It is 8mm, and it works by first winding it up.
It included a detachable handle (not shown). While hard to see in my  photo, on the front, under the lens are two buttons, T and W, for tele or wide adjustments.
Very solid. From what I can gather, these are from the early Sixties. A year or two older than me.

Sankyo Super CM-400

I know, not a still image camera, but still kind of cool. It's one of the 4 old 8mm cameras I own.

This camera was made in Japan by Sankyo Seiki and marketing began in 1969.
The lens is a Sankyo Zoom f: 1.8 \ F: 8.5-35 mm with a zooming ratio: 4.1x
focusing: manual, aerial, 1.3 to infinity
zooming: auto and manual.

That's it! I really need to hit some more garage sales. Maybe an old SLR is in my future